“Top – watch”
by VCLuxury on Dec.07, 2009, under Chanel
The effects of globalization is one of the birth of what we call the “new billionaires”, “super rich” and even “top-rich” and a new international social class. This new type of benefit from financial deregulation, gold and oil prices rising rapidly at present is not confined to OECD member countries, while in the emerging Brazil, Russia, India and China also exist in large numbers.

This new global class have in common is: Replica Chanel Watch for the novel, extraordinary and special objects of infinite love. So is not surprising, the watch industry has been mandated as a manufacturing-rich class favorite “toys” valuable goods industries, it is natural to follow this trend.
Indeed, despite the mechanical electronic timing technology itself has been exceeded, but the timing of this because of mechanical watch industry’s most prestigious branch of the unprecedented growing popularity, Replica Chanel Watch industry has possession of the success in this area advantageous position. Therefore, the mechanical watches have evolved from a utilitarian objects into social symbols enviable position. The symbols in these societies, the “top-level rich who” is to get more value for their spending. In other words, the more bizarre, the more rare or something more extravagant is the better it is.
This kind of extraordinary things in pursuit of a direct result of the watch is incredibly increasing size and influence in today’s watch industry in all sectors. Larger surface area of each watch, the more likely increase the number of complex devices and unusual display unit.
In a few years ago that set off a trend of people in this large, North American hip-hop singer who is very important. At that time, the maximum number of places they are wearing bling bling jewelry ornate style of ridicule. However, these critics attack bling displayed when popular for their unusual short-sighted, because only a few years later, the watch industry ‘most advanced’ areas of influence is also affected by this craze. These in a timely manner “absurd” became popular at the time of the declaration.

Examples of HD3
Most of these watches by the determination to enter the “top-watch” niche market of independent watch manufacturer or a small company. This is relatively easy for them, because from the beginning they would have nothing to fear. At the same time, do not want to break the challenge of many major brands watch industry taboos have little difficulty. Able to create a fascinating model of graphics synthesis and the combination of new digital manufacturing technologies have greatly facilitated their task.
“In the beginning, the” design team from the HD3 Complication watch the Valérie Ursenbacher (she and Jorg Hysek and Fabrice Gonet cooperation) said, “We have to make a prototype, and then all the sensor measurements in order to copy more or less like machines to the model. Obviously, we did have considerable limitations. Today, we can directly carry out three-dimensional design from my computer directly transferred to the digital command equipment to manufacture products. all are made possible by. ”
HD3 Complication adventures of the three designers also “top-watch,” an excellent example of the trend. These three are the designer came from – rather than the watchmaker origin, in the work under the leadership of Jorg Hysek has nearly 15 years, Jorg Hysek decided to sell the company together after the freedom of action. Now they are in a vineyard between Geneva and Lausanne in a small building to work. They decided to “pursue interests,” as Jorg Hysek said, “especially in the current dominant trend is to produce a real case of special products.”
For this trio for the lazy designer, anything goes, with incredible forms. “Think Kanba,” Jorg Hysek said, “in October 2003, we sent a Russian retailer, a record of our ideas booklet. That a number of paintings containing just the pattern, but we are so received six million Swiss francs worth of advance orders and start production. ”
In 2004, we began producing the first two watches, Valérie Ursenbacher design Capture and Fabrice Gone design of Raptor. Both table contains two in the case where placed La Joux Perret Tourbillon designed and decorated ahead of sophistication. Although these two ideas unlimited, but it can be said is the most elaborate production process for completion. The most unusual of the Raptor, a good hiding its secrets. The double-layer shell is opened, you will find a tourbillon, tourbillon Here is the second movement – an electronic display with a quartz chronograph, display the date and second time zone. The original “toy” price is: Capture of 18 million Swiss francs, Raptor 23 million Swiss francs, for a few “new people involved in the watch,” this is indeed not bad.

In 2006, the company’s legend continues. Jorg Hysek design Idalgo XT-2 available in. With this real “monster” (size 65mm × 52mm, the total thickness of 15mm) the birth, HD3 precision watches through “further than to adapt to the current movement, namely, the development of a truly new type of display suitable movement,” began a new step. This of course is a designer’s approach, but this watch shift the manufacturing process closely linked with the aesthetic vision. This watch features include: a single movement-driven double-dial, where the aspect that is displayed when jumping window, a retrograde minutes and seconds, while the other side is a big date window, second time zone and the pendulum . This can create the success of the entire watch movement manufacturing companies benefited from the cooperation of BNB. BNB suppliers with the cooperation of the movement is not accidental. Although the works of independent designers can all see that they are away from the traditional mode and display mode, this new manufacturing method has been able to achieve the watch is indeed as young design studio with the same hope of overcoming the traditional method of , meet some new and original manufacturer’s co-operation movement. At this point, as BNB Concept SA (on the company for the next period will be explored in more detail) such company is the availability of new technologies, “resources” a typical example. If not, the company, which from the large group of new watch manufacturing – may simply not be left less than today. The vertical large group of indoor units of work can be done by outside entities, and mergers and acquisitions can be achieved. But increasingly, small but often very advanced rehabilitation providers as a whole up to oppose it.
Another important point is that the HD3 Complication such as small entities in product development flexibility, it is of some clumsy large organizations lack. This is also very clear that increased responsiveness. Jorg Hysek said: “We are all the remaining work is done indoors.” Communication, public relations, exhibitions, packaging and brand Web sites directly controlled by the designer.
If they have not engaged in a block watch, they went into the workshop next door, grabbed the brush, in a large canvas on the interpretation of its own creation. This is a creative release that allows them to Fabrice Gonet like the idea of a new work Biaxial this watch. This new product is that it is the shining of the development from the dual-axis tourbillon BNB can be used in the two three-dimensional figures on the drum hours. Designed 11 watches have all been sold.

MB & F, a collective adventure
Jorg Hysek affirmed that they were for “master at” Greubel Forsey great worship. In particular, he admired the work of the quality of Greubel Forsey and watchmaking spirit, but his own definition, first and foremost a designer. But he also admitted he has a special ability “can be talented watchmaker gathered together.” In another person, created a MB & F (Max Büsser & Friends abbreviation) and Max Büsser body, you can also see the same talent pool characteristics.
Max Büsser had long served as general manager of Harry Winston watches, and successfully bring the brand among the advanced tab of the kingdom. He himself was “top-watch,” attracted by the potential. It was probably making a very risky Opus series of experiences to enable him to move in this direction. Can not be denied, Opus’s idea is very innovative. The overall processing power, or nearly at the holistic treatment of the right to give quite independent watch designer (of which Antoine Preziuso, Vianney Halter, François-Paul Journe, and Félix Baumgartner and others) to design a “super top-level” when the meter, so that Everyone was impressed. Opus is not only a watch trade fair, everyone talked about the topic, but also shows the public clock for the extraordinary true love.
Max Büsser the strategic level characters, leaving Harry Winston, the patient had made and encouraged about on his show to you what products will be rumors. His first act of genius is to give the names of their watches from: Horological Machine, an inspired sense of mystery at the same time, they will certainly attract some soul collectors are still wearing shorts in the name of the young boys. This title to a particular way also implies, this watch is not just “watch”, with Max Büsser own words, “will become a 21st century high-tech machinery,” On the other hand, its “excellent quality of , also witnessed the hand-made time the essence of traditional art skills. ”

To achieve its objectives, Max Büsser at first the idea of his own called the “utopian” composition, each one through collective efforts to produce a “small quantity” has a very modern design of the Horological Machine. Opus, as he had done, that he always would like to commend the work to create a watchmaker (By contrast, most other well-known brand will not be disclosed outside collaborators), Büsser determined from the outset, In each watch emphasized the creation of the real nature of collective collaboration. In the MB & F, for all the people who work for a particular product to give equal status. (Entrepreneurs Max Büsser is the company’s major shareholders, minority stake purchase was recently Serge Kriknoff, which is the parts maker G & F Châtelain’s former general manager, left the G & F Châtelain joined the MB & F, after a new adventure journey.)
Büsser because he served as General Manager of Harry Winston watches, a solid network can be created by the establishment of this collective. This cooperative effort includes not only suppliers, there are quite a comprehensive and highly developed business network of retailers. Moreover, it was and retailers together, Max Büsser began his adventure. He traveled the world to show people is not a prototype, but a simple picture. Most resellers are to follow him, so that MB & F can begin to realize its Horological Machine No 1. The real “mechanical”, a huge shell was inverted “8″, together with four parallel cylinders, 7 days power reserve, a high from the center of Tourbillon. This “is never called” factors actually been secured.
Since the introduction of Horological Machine No 1 after, MB & F is also to his fans continue to surprise, and then they introduced the Horological Machine No 2. The watch has a secret until recently all been announced. The watch’s dial equally large, but for rectangular, with two dials, one dial is the instantaneous time-hopping and concentric retrograde minutes, and the other dial is centered around the bi-monthly dial hemispherical retrograde date display. The watch by Girard-Perregaux Girard-Perregaux automatic movement drive.
As for the HM 1, the final disposition of very careful work once again demonstrated the brand of the 21st century time machine represents a tradition of high-end, and a positive departure from the tradition of genuine integration. This principle seems to play an effect, MB & F has announced that in 2007 a turnover of 5 million Swiss francs, while orders in 2008 reached 8.5 million Swiss francs.

Jean Dunand, unique to
Jean Dunand watches another brand is the top-level representatives (see this issue’s cover story). CEO and founder Thierry Oulevay, together with Christophe Claret summarizes its philosophy, “We are not producing for the market watch, but for personal production.” Is the case, Jean Dunand pride in making only his own “unique style” , and each family are provided by the structure of never before seen.
Jean Dunand’s first major performance was in 2005 created Orbital Tourbillon. Designed by Christophe Claret this tourbillon, in a sense, the subsequent influx of many of the “tourbillon-style” table tide precursor person. Nevertheless, it is very special. The principle is: cones and Tourbillon (placed face to face) in a rotating ball-bearing support pillars between the two strips. Above, thus creating a slab with a tourbillon can see the opening of the rotating dial. Hours of adjustments and not through the traditional winding crown, but by the watch behind the vertical completion. Removal of the crown with two windows instead of the shell, allowing the side to see the mechanical structure. One of the opening (in the 3 o’clock position) with a vertical pointer to show the dynamic storage. Each watch is unique in that dial, respectively, by pythons and other rare fossils or very special carved stone.
Art Déco design tend to the Jean Dunand watches, determined to create a technological innovation and a link between the decorative arts. And we will in the latest series of Shabaka found that the association combines the impact of Art Déco and Egypt inspiration, demonstrating the pointer, numbers, moon phase and the small scrolls are wonderfully charming clock face together.
Technically, Shabaka of numerous small, complex devices as disparate mix together. It is the cathedral bells in a repeater – this is the most lovable of a sophisticated watch – is also equipped with four small cylindrical display date calendar feature. Watch with a completely original 90-degree transmission systems to drive. The most important thing is that these instructions identity – can be surrounded by crown of the two buttons (at 2 o’clock at the date display, and the other calendar display at 4 o’clock Department) and integration into the crown of a coaxial button (to adjust the month and years) – at midnight instantaneous beat.
Leap year show quite ingenious. A small white strip a four-year cycle of rotation, the letter B light on behalf of a leap year, the other from the bell cut off the surface of the non-leap year for three years, said 1,2,3 respectively. Moon phase (in theory have an accuracy of 120 years of bad day) through one side to show the rotation of disc, disc shows the moon. Another subtlety is the power storage display, directly from the cylindrical winding supply, in the table behind clearly visible. All of these show logo are combined in a decorative device, used in four different levels of geometric separation made, and through a small pink golden triangle pyramid segmentation.
Obviously, the output of these special watches are also very limited. Price from 39 million Swiss francs to 55 million Swiss francs Orbital Tourbillon range of Shabaka. Thierry Oulevay is expected in 2008 will create 40 watches. Last year, another model Grande Complication (blend of 12 kinds of complicated configuration) of the six watches, each priced at 70 million Swiss francs.

Badollet, new entrants
“Top watch,” the trend to continue to attract new entrants. Recently there have been a brand-Badollet announced its entry into this market. According to its CEO Aldo Magada said that the new brand planning ambitious plans annual production of about 100 watches, each priced not less than 20 million Swiss francs. Magada said the company’s investors (collectors and financiers in Germany) also “give it time,” Magada said, “will be convinced that the long-term profitability.”
There are no watches available, but the first table is scheduled for April 2008 in Basel World release. Badollet has already announced equipped with 4 different movements of the four models – a band meteorite dial (with BNB cooperation) of the flying tourbillon, a tourbillon with a timer, a three-question form, as well as a far mysterious, code-named “Bamboo Bamboo” special style. It is “unique design, the movement of all the components, including aluminum / magnesium plates, have been configured according to the most effective way.” This is the brand is currently the case revealed. In addition to watches in addition, Badollet also announced the creation of a “time-related items,” such as sand tourbillon frame was replaced by “mechanical hourglass.”
“Badollet” The name originated in a country with international links, Geneva watches manufacturing family ( ‘Badollet’ family members living in Paris, because Breguet Breguet work with the prestigious; in London, is also a member of the family set up a New Geneva New City of Geneva the United States.) When asked whether the family’s history is just an excuse when, Aldo Magada justification for the choice of the name. On the contrary, he affirmed that “we do get inspired from history, from the source of these watches, so that we can predict their own future. Badollet family legend that we are given a course of action. They used to be interested in the process of their own time to industrialization watch manufacturers, and through the ongoing technical ideas will distinguish themselves from others. For example, a named Jean Badollet members in 1689 in Geneva, delivered a speech entitled ‘watch to learn the essence of’ the small paper, as reflected in kinds of technical ideas. “(the brand has recently republished this works)

Magada claimed that this “Tracing the source of the study” include a “get away from all those flashy” in watchmaking. With the current popular “spectacular” when the total difference, Badollet want to support “in-depth technical reflection and based on the quality of housing and completion of high value-added.” To achieve this goal, the brand with the Geneva and the Jura region, exclusive subcontractors working closely and does not intend to try any of the cost of the vertical production.
For the design and development movement and the shell, but also set up a small house technology sector. The brand is trying to begin to grasp the core of its shell and after-sales service. Magada special emphasis on the brand’s “top-watch” service. Each watch has a large number of service packages, each customer have been a wide range of information, have their own web page on follow-up products; 5-year quality assurance; non-assurance services of regular maintenance; brand stands for door delivery pickup; repair a view to providing Alternative watches; and personalized services 24 hours a day.
At present, Badollet is determined to invest in the “top-watch” brands in the latest one. We can call it “luxury niche market”, but it is a requirement brand showcase the real advanced than the “niche” market, whether they are advanced than the technical or aesthetic, or associated with the service and distribution. It is very important, “top-watch” phenomenon can also be seen as the entire watch industry forward an experimental basis.